Ikonta 521 16 manual
I decided to challenge myself to use the camera and find out if and how it worked. My expectations were not particularly high and I expected at least something to be broken or faulty.
Turns out I was very wrong. This means you get a whole 8 photos per film. When collapsed, the camera is surprisingly portable and will even fit into a large pocket so I guess it definitely qualifies as compact, at least by medium format camera standards.
The viewfinder is not exactly large and you do get quite a bit of the extended bellows in your field of view. There are also no parallax correction indications or other guides, which needs to be considered when framing close subjects. There is an uncoupled split screen rangefinder which uses a second, tiny finder to the main viewfinder.
Also, in low light it becomes very hard to use. The fact that the rangefinder is not coupled means that you need to set the distance in the finder, then read the value off the dial on the top and set the same value on the lens itself. This is obviously very important and something I did not realise until after the first few shots. Needless to say those were not exactly in focus.
The camera also has a very fancy, cutting edge, double exposure protection — a little field turns red after the film has been wound on a bit not however the full amount necessary for a frame. There are 2 shutter releases, one on the body, and one at the front of the lens.
Winding on the film does require some care and attention and on the first roll of film I did end up with some overlapping edges and accidental double exposures.
After becoming more aware of this and giving it the necessary attention, I have not had any more problems. The process for taking a photo looks something like this:. Where I think this camera really shines is in the way it forces you to make some serious decisions about which pictures to take and allowing the time to make sure they are set up correctly.
Remember, you only get 8 shots per roll. In fact the test shots looked so nice, that I decided to actually put the camera to work. I love the look and feel of the images. I also think that introducing an interesting camera like this really helped to change up the shoot and make it more unique.
Again, I think this helps to create a different look and the possibility of some quite unique shots. The closest focus distance is also 1. This forces you to think about ways of incorporating more of the subjects body and surroundings, instead of just getting close, framing head and shoulders, and blowing out the background with a fast lens.
The results look very clean and sharp, with a lovely background blur when the aperture is wide open. The prints are crisp and full of detail but still have a certain vintage, dreamy feel to them. Using this camera also inspired me to get back to developing my own film, in homage to the great pioneers of photography.
To sum up, using this camera has been a highly rewarding process, with quite a steep learning curve you learn best from your mistakes but also some very quick and satisfying results.
I have gone from just hoping that the camera still works and using it as a learning opportunity, to actively thinking about ways to use it more deliberately going forward. For more articles on 35mmc about the subject matter discussed here, please click one of the following tag links:.
It is funded by adverts. If you don't like the adverts you can subscibe here and they will disapear. Alternatively, please feel free to chuck a few pennies in the tip jar via Ko-fi:. Become a Patron!Written by Pablo Olvera and published on October 16, August 13, I have an obsession with panoramic photos and the cameras that take them. Finding these candid moments are just one of the many things I love about the format. I had struggled with adapting 35mm to expose in medium format, but why not adapt medium format to give me the negative size I wanted?
It has a modestly wide 75mm Novar f3. I narrowed the film gate to 24mm x 56mm by cutting an old broken darkslide and attaching the pieces to either side of the film gate. Shooting the camera in portrait actually gives you landscape photos! These are the big dot, medium dot, small dot in-between numbers. Unfortunately, I have not found any of my Kodak paper backings that have these markings.
Finally, I masked my viewfinder to match and I was ready to shoot. The 5 photos you see are all hand developed and scanned using Cinestill Df 96 Monobath and an Epson V I really enjoyed making this panoramic mod to my camera and I was absolutely thrilled to see the negatives when they came out. I have always loved to tinker, analog has married my love for photography with innate love to disassemble, tinker, destroy, and create. One to one interviews with the film photography industry and service providers.
Return to Film. Explore experimental development techniques, pushing and pulling film, cross processing, red scale photography and much, much more here. Featured Projects Global Film Lab Map Guides A deeper look into projects created by yours truly and members of the analogue photography community. Secret Santa Opinion Thoughts and musings on film photography. More related reading. Month in review: August Photostory: Never Forget — by Craig Pindell. Month in review: July Pablo Olvera I have always loved to tinker, analog has married my love for photography with innate love to disassemble, tinker, destroy, and create.
Very cool hack. Join the discussion Cancel reply.Discussion in ' Classic Manual Cameras ' started by starvyApr 13, To be honest shooting Astia under bright sunny conditions at around f11 was only going to produce outstanding results despite the dead fungus spores between the second and third element.
As per usual I started reading up on 6x6, 6x9 and 6x4. The 6x9 seems to have film flatness issues for some people and I felt that I really wanted a truly old square negative! It occurred to me that I probably would not be able to afford a Super Ikonta for the moment. The distance focusing had worked out fine for my needs with the Nettar. I have a better grasp of feet and inches than metres! So I concluded upon buying an Ikonta, the middle version of this range without the rangefinder.
Here too I needed to make a decision on what I should be aiming for. So again I started reading up on the Ikonta related forum posts here and checking Ebay listings. It seemed to me that a Tessar lens should be what I ought to aim for. The lens is in remarkable condition. The only slight issue is that the main screw that would open up the folder is missing. However, it can be opened by pressing the other screw close to the viewfinder. So far I have shot one roll of XP2 and now halfway through a roll of Provia.
I know that this lens should provide outstanding images when used with a hood in black and white. In strong sunlight I simply held the camera sideways using the lensdoor as my hood! My uncoated Leitz Elmar f4 from provides very sharp results when stopped down. The colour seems to lack a little bit of contrast in the Elmar but I think using saturated films like Velvia 50 or Ektar with an uncoated lens should counter that lack of colour somewhat?
For the moment I am not looking to spend money on a good light meter so hopefully the above would teach me enough about the conditions in the long run to be able to guess by under all conditions without the need for another camera or meter. Essentially, based on how the first two rolls come out I would like this to be my go anywhere camera. Other than the instant convenience part I really don't care for digital at all any more. The Nettar showed me the limitations of my very capable Bessa R based rangefinder system including some nice Cosina-Voightlander, older Leitz and Russian Zeiss clone lenses as well as the Olympus OM4 and the excellent Zuiko optics.The Zeiss Super Ikonta series was introduced in with 4 models.
Models like thewithout a second number producing images in the 4. The Super Ikonta series have all coupled rangefinders with front lens focusing.Factorio starter base
Later models launched in the s had additionally a uncoupled selenium rangefinder. Considering the condition how these cameras can be found today, the Super Ikonta series was truly a high quality mechanical camera.
I want to highlight three models in a blog series about the Super Ikonta which I owned and used. Considering that the camera was produced between andmy camera was in a very good condition when I received it. The lens-shutter assembly worked well and was almost clean and the body condition was superb.
The only problem which I had to solve was with the film winding mechanism and the automatic double exposure prevention system. After opening the top plate, cleaning the mechanical system with alcohol and re-lubricating with watch oil the winding mechanism got back to life.
Zeiss Ikon Ikonta - Series printed manual
The further numbers of the frames is shown on the top of the camera through the frame counter. There is no need to look again through the red window at the backside of the camera.
The double exposure prevention systems avoids that the exposure button can be pushed two times for the same frame. However, if you want to double-exposue a frame, you still can do it with operating the shutter directly at the shutter-lens assembly. One further issue I had with the camera was the bellow. Although it was still light-tight, small particles of the fabric got loosen inside which caused spots on the negatives. Not only that the bellow fitted perfectly, also the production and shipping was amazing fast.
If you glue the bellow onto the camera body, make sure that you are using a glue which gives you some time to adjust the final position. Since the lens was clean and the shutter was working very smooth, I did not have to open the lens-shutter assembly.
A measurement of the shutter speeds showed me that the shutter timings where all one stop to slow.20/14 simplified in fraction form
No big deal. Knowing that I can consider that with my light meter readings. I really like the old Zeiss folders.
It has the best lens, a Tessar and best Shutter — rim set with a broad range of speeds.COM -- The M. You MUST E-mail me the "folder name" of the model as well as the "exact file name" if you wish to receive a copy.Breast augmentation surgery cost turkey
The quality of these varies. Find all the information on your camera model on just my site. Butkus, High Bridge, N. Problems opening PDF files or printing problems - click here. Outside Link outside printing company. Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super.
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Zeiss Ikon Contina. Zeiss Ikon Contina I. Zeiss Ikon Contina Ia.Discussion in ' Classic Manual Cameras ' started by ljwestJun 1, Zeiss-Ikon Ikonta model ID? Found a Zeiss Ikon Ikonta in old stuff my Dad had. It takes film, and it appears to shoot a 6x4. If you hold the camera horizontally, with the reel ends in each hand, you get a 4. Photos are HERE. There is also a lever with two settings: M and F. This stays normally in the F position, and if moved to M, when the shutter is fired, it moves back to F.
Slower than that, and it hangs open. The bellows seem OK, but only film will really tell that tale. So anyway, I see all sorts of models for the Ikonta on the 'net. I can't seem to positively identify mine, however.
I see "16", "A", "B", etc, but none that look precisely like this one. Any help or tips on working with this camera would be helpful. And any tips on films to try would also be great! Hi Larry Your Ikonta is in beautiful condition! Bracket the same composition and write down your notes. Use a piece of frosted acetate or tape placed across the film gate frosted side toward the lensyou can use this as a groundglass to see if the actual focus point agrees with the scale on the perimeter of the lens.
Take some scans of your negatives and post them here, we would like to see your results. If you should ever tire of this, I would be honored to give this Ikonta a new home. Paul, Many thanks. In looking around the 'net, I also see that my camera may be described as an Ikonta "A" ?
From what I see the "A" designates the 6x4. Also, is there any online list for the serial numbers? Will try out some film soon. Some times they are sticky. Lucky You. Please do as Paul mentioned. Here's a list I know of that might help in the overview.
I think! Look for Zeiss Historical blah-blah!??? ??? ????? 36v
I have a pre-war model that's still barely in usable condition. I find my self getting landscape and porttrait confused when trying to frame a picture. I also noted a tendency for less than horitzonal results Still wonderful cameras capable of great results! These are great little cameras.Zeiss-Ikon 's top product line of folding medium format cameras were badged Ikonta and were generally of superior quality when compared with corresponding folding camera models of Zeiss-Ikon's Nettar product line.
The Ikonta D produced larger negatives on either or format film, respectively. There was also a Baby Ikonta, which used film. The first series of Ikonta were also labeled ''.
Aroundthe series gave way to the series which added a shutter release on the body and a double exposure prevention. A chrome top plate with an integral finder and an accessory shoe was added. The series added an uncoupled rangefinder and was also called the "Mess" Ikonta. Hubert Nerwin designed the Ikonta 35 for 35mm film. It was a viewfinder camera.
Zeiss Ikonta 521/16 pre-war f3.5 Tessar with Compur-Rapid shutter
Nerwin created versions with with rangefinder, the Contina with separate optical viewfinder, and the Contessa with a big optical viewfinder plus superimposed Super-Ikonta -like coupled rangefinder. Variants which included a coupled rangefinder which were named Super Ikonta. Especially the early Super Ikonta rangefinder cameras were copied by competitors, since they had an ingenious way to couple the rangefinder by means of one optical element of the rangefinder mounted at the lens standard.
An example of such a copy is the Moskva Both were in 6x6 format and had the advantage of a film winding mechanism which allowed the film to be advanced without having to watch numbers in red windows. It is of interest to note that the Superikonta line of cameras was made virtually unchanged from the mid s to the mid fifties, while the III, and IV model were only made for 4 yearsbeing something of a dead end to development.
The West German plant launched a 35mm Ikonta viewfinder model which was continued as Contina. Ikontas were fitted with a wide range of lenses and shutters and the cameras were originally priced accordingly. The primary difference between Ikontas and Nettar models was often the lens and shutter combination. The focal length was 75mm for 6x6 format cameras and mm for 6x9 format.
Novar lenses were a triplet designed outsourced to another German optical company, typically Rodenstock or Steinheil. Tessar lenses were of a 4-element design made by Zeiss. Ikontas were also provided with a range of shutters, the simplest being a three-speed Klio on early models. Super Ikonta cameras were always equipped with the best shutter available for the given period of manufacture. In contrast to this, the end customer could order a Super Ikonta with either a Tessar lens 4 elements or a Novar 3 elementsbut it was still mounted in the expensive shutter.
Post-war Ikontas tended to have better shutters and lenses as the cheaper combinations were relegated to the Ikonta, Mess-Ikonta, and Nettar line.
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